Under Review: my first VI chemical peel
A 7-day play-by-play in my journey to clear skin.
A few weeks ago, I woke up with an unwelcome intruder on my face; a whole planet. It was painful to the touch, situated directly on my chin — and knowing my tendencies, it would be all I’d think about until it was evicted. I ice rolled my face and begrudgingly put makeup on before heading out the door for work.
I made it about two and a half hours before spontaneously booking the first available appointment at the dermatology practice I frequent. Pro tip: if you have a spare $35 (or whatever your specialty visit deducible costs), book the quickest appointment you can get, bat your eyes, play innocent, and gently nudge the practitioner towards supplying a cortisone shot (or three). It’s well-worth the money IMO, and limits the life cycle of cystic acne to about 48-72 hours in my experience (vs. weeks, in some cases).
During the appointment, I expressed to the PA how frustrating it was to still be dealing with the occasional rogue cystic pimple and consistent flare ups on the lower third of my face. No I do not want to try Accutane, yes I’ve been on Spironolactone intermittently over the years (currently off), yes, I’ve tried all the things. Can’t we just reset to zero? Laser my whole epidermis off? Unfortunately with active acne, I was not a candidate for laser, but she did confirm that I could try my latest hyperfixation — the VI Peel. Tell me more, I said, as if I hadn’t spent the whole afternoon researching.
Developed by Vitality Institute and touted as one of the top medium-depth chemical peels, the VI Peel promises quick results in smoothing out your skin tone in just seven days. According to their site, the peel is “designed to lift pigment, remove sun damage, alleviate acne and scarring, and fight fine lines and wrinkles.” A jack of all trades. The peel comes in six variations: VI Peel Purify, VI Peel Precision Plus, VI Peel Purify with Precision Plus (my peel of choice), VI Peel Advanced, VI Peel Original, and VI Peel Body. They all effectively provide the same treatment, but are geared toward different demographics — notably, the VI Peel is suitable for all skin types and tones.
For many of us, Samantha Jones was our first introduction to chemical peels. During a stereotypical NYC plastic surgeon office visit, her Botox appointment gets an unexpected upsell and add-on. “Before we do the botox, have you thought about doing a freshening chemical peel? It takes 15 minutes and it can make you look 10-20 years younger.”
Who can forget the harrowing scene of Samantha calling Carrie from her bathroom to inform her that she’d be skipping her book party to quietly recuperate after “having something done”? In classic Carrie form, she protests — and in classic Samantha form, she shows up for her friend — looking like beef carpaccio, according to Carrie. Moral of the story — research your specific peel, manage your social calendar and plan for potential downtime. In Samantha’s case (clearly a very deep chemical peel), a few weeks off would’ve been appropriate. Luckily with a VI peel (and most medium-depth chemical peels), there is no real downtime, other than managing some unsightly dead skin as it begins to shed.
There are many kinds of chemical peels, which utilize different types of acids at varying percentages. The products we use at home for exfoliation contain lower levels — for example, 2% salicylic acid, 7% glycolic acid, and so on. Salicylic acid is an example of a BHA (beta hydroxy acid), which penetrates deeper to target pores and clear blackheads. AHAs (alpha hydroxy acid), like glycolic acid, exfoliate on a more superficial level — targeting fine lines, discoloration and hyperpigmentation.
The VI peel combines various actives and acids, some of which include: trichloroacetic acid (10-12%), retinoic acid, salicylic acid (10-12%), ascorbic acid (vitamin c), kojic acid, and glycolic acid — all at higher levels than you would find in an at-home product, which is why they need to be performed in an office by a well-trained technician.
A week after my impromptu dermatology appointment, I found myself in the same chair, anxiously awaiting the application of the suspiciously orange VI peel concoction. A detailed play-by-play, below.
Day 0: Monday
I specifically booked the 6 p.m. time slot for my peel for two reasons — 1.) a reasonably acceptable time for a post-work Monday appointment, and 2.) I was previously warned by my PA that I’d have to go home with the mask still on my skin, and post-sunset seemed like a good choice. I’ll let you decide which of these two reasons was the real priority.
After being called in from the waiting room, I sat down in the chair and was asked to confirm that I’d stopped using retinol at least 5 days prior. I’d done enough Reddit and TikTok research to know that this is very important.
The PA first applied acetone to my entire face and neck which was… an experience. The smell and feeling left me breathless, almost like I’d had the wind knocked out of me. The feeling was fleeting, and this step is essential in drawing out all oils and prepping your skin for the chemical solution.
Step 2: the main event. She applied what looked like a cotton ball soaked in deep orange (!) liquid, which smelled strange like the acetone but not as breathtaking. She went back and forth between each side of my face, taking multiple passes and evenly distributing the solution while I held a small fan to help speed up the drying process. She then explained the meticulous steps to follow in the hours after, as well as for the next seven days. And that was that! In and out in 30 minutes, including the wait time. She sent me on my way with the peel still intact and with the at-home kit, which would provide detailed instructions and the only skincare products I was allowed to use for the next seven days.
I opened up Snapchat and gasped. ORANGE. Stranger things have happened in NYC, especially on the Upper East Side. Thank god it was dark, but every well-lit bodega I passed was mildly mortifying.
I patiently waited the four hours and followed the at-home instructions: wipe down face with one chemical-drenched towelette, wait, wash face with provided cleanser, check, another towelette, wait, another face wash, check, hydrocortisone cream — and finally, bed.
Day 1: Tuesday
It’s a work from office day and I’m having regrets. No flaking yet, and I’ve been told that makeup is OK, but I’m paranoid and want to limit what I put on my face as much as possible.
Wake up, cold water, VI purifying cleanser, VI cream, VI SPF 50. Other than that, I go for my nonnegotiables — some type of eyebrow setting (today, it’s my OG love: ABH Clear Brow Gel, which is lighter than the current Brow Freeze Gel in my rotation), and a touch of spot concealing with my trusted Merit Complexion Stick. Remember when I said that the current shade might be even too pale for my palest? I stand corrected. Last week of January and post-peel redness — it’s a perfect match.
I used the smaller end of the Makeup by Mario F1 brush to pick up the product and disperse it onto my skin, rather than my typical method of drawing it directly on my face. Delicate skin aside, I really enjoyed this application and if all goes well and this peel gives me the skin of a newborn, I’ll probably implement this technique going forward. I conclude my stripped down routine with a few spritzes of Caudalie Beauty Elixir, and am on my merry way.
3 p.m. mirror check in. My skin feels tight, but not painful. The Merit product stands strong, but I’m starting to see slight cracks — an expected side effect of the peel.
I head home and complete my last home peel towelette an hour before bed. I have to remind myself NO PICKING. Purifying cleanser, towelette, wait 30 minutes, other towelette, wait 10 minutes, hydrocortisone cream. Sweet dreams!
Day 2: Wednesday
It’s technically been less than 48 hours — which is what I remind myself when I don’t see my skin peeling off in sheets, as I’d been hoping for and had seen all over TikTok. The texture of my skin feels relatively unchanged, but I do see things coming to the surface. I wash my face and lather on SPF 50, as instructed. This is when I see the beginning signs of peeling — which catches some of the SPF, and accentuates the sunscreen white cast. Lovely.
Day 3-4: Thursday and Friday
The peel is peeling. Do you guys want pictures? Happy to share upon request, not quite bold enough to publish on the internet to live here in perpetuity.
Luckily, the peeling isn’t as dramatic as I was expecting. Apparently this is typical when you already exfoliate, which — between my daily acids and retinol — I am very well-exfoliated. I had purchased tiny scissors to “trim” (ew) the peeling skin, but these went unused. Instead I did exactly what I was told not to do, and pulled with my fingers. Do not follow my example here.
Anyway, the peeling was light enough for me to lather on a thick layer of the supplied hydrocortisone cream and my long-trusted Cerave moisturizer, and still go out and be seen in public (if a dimly lit UES piano bar counts).
Day 5-6: Saturday and Sunday
I wash my face, using the quickly dwindling supply of purifying cleanser, and gently pat dry. My skin has genuinely not felt this soft or this smooth in years. Again, thrilled to not have to cancel my weekend plans à la Samantha.
Sunday night I cheated a little bit and applied one of my favorite overnight sheet masks before getting in bed for a little extra hydration. Would it be me if I followed directions explicitly?
Day 7: Monday
Finally, fin! I wake up to some of the best-looking skin I’ve seen in years (excluding any time I’ve had a nice tan and some extra hydration). I give myself a B- for following directions, and I give the peel an A for its performance — reminding myself that expecting a complete skin overhaul in one week isn’t realistic, and that the recommended course is generally 3-4 treatments. While there is still some residual hyperpigmentation and acne, any texture seems to have flattened out, discoloration is significantly lighter, and the dryness I was suffering from has miraculously disappeared.
My biggest takeaway has been to recommit myself to consistent, daily sunscreen use — because without it, this will have all been for nothing (and I’m not in the market to waste 1) time, and 2) $350). With limited UV exposure, winter is the best time for these treatments and I plan to get another peel in the next month or so (before spending a week in Florida, and hiding myself under an umbrella for the first time in my life). And if all goes well, I’ll be able to start incorporating VI Peel + laser/microneedling — a whole other ball game. Stay tuned!
Witty and honest review. Glad you scratched the itch!